Where to Eat in the Marais
When dining in the Marais, it can be hard to decide what approach to take. Do you play into the neighbourhood’s heritage and dine near Temple, opting for one of the Jewish bakeries or falafel joints, do you try an old brasserie or bistro to sample French staples, or do you opt for something newer and trendier? Or maybe you’re just passing through and want to simple sample sweets and enjoy light bites. Regardless of what you’re looking for, you’ll find it in the Marais, and plenty more to tempt you. That said, as the old Jewish quarter of the city, it would certainly be a shame to not try at least one thing from one of their old traditional bakeries, perhaps even a challah loaf to go.
Most likely any research surrounding this neighbourhood has mentioned the Breton style buckwheat crepes from Breizh. Perfect for a light savoury lunch, order one of the cheesy crepes, and enjoy a truly uniquely French dish. You don’t find crepes like this outside of France – unless a poor imitation – and Breizh may just be the most famous place to order them.
Other famous options that are great for a (potentially) lighter lunch that don’t break the bank include L’As du Falafel and Miznon. You’ll probably see a line up stretching down the street if you happen upon L’As at lunch time but don’t worry, it moves fast enough if you’re just getting something to go. If you want to snag a table, you may have to wait a while and your meal with definitely be heavier – it’s unavoidable as you see all the food go by, you’ll just want everything.
If looking for something on the healthier side, Bob’s Kitchen is an easy option, allowing you to save your calories for dessert, while Café Charlot is a perfect spot to sit and dine on something fresh with lots of coffee. Alternatively, perhaps you just want something quick and to go, healthy be damned. In that case, consider popular burger joint PNY Burger or opt for a pastrami sandwich at Schwartz’s Deli, which specializes in a Jewish American deli menu. Or stick to French cuisine and get a fun crepe from MARDI, whether you choose one of their unique combinations or make your own.
When it comes to dinner, you won’t be disappointed with the options in the neighbourhood, from small and traditional to modern French, with a great selection of fusion and international cuisines, and some restaurants that will break the bank but leave you salivating long after you return home. For more traditional French-fare, consider Claude Collilot, a small and affordable restaurant with an elegant and modern atmosphere or Gaspard de la Nuit, which is a wonderful option for a more intimate dining experience. It’s slightly fancier than a bistro but still affordable - focusing on classic French dishes. Here you’ll find duck confit with potatoes and salad for €23 or sautéed lamb with semolina at €26. Though by no means Paris bistro staples, Pain Vin Fromage offers hearty French fare from the Alsatian region; think raclette, fondue, and – my personal favourite – Tartiflette. They also have a fun spin on the tartiflette, called the Munstiflette, which uses Munster cheese rather than Reblochon.
Robert et Louise is a small traditional bistro, which has been operating for over 60 years, offering a cozy and intimate dining option. With a rustic atmosphere and a wood-fired oven to warm the restaurant in winter., you’ll find simple dishes done right, evoking that feeling of home cooking and dining at your grandparents. You’ll find duck confit or duck breast with honey, lamb chops, rib eye and T-bone Angus steaks, along with mushroom omelettes, to more than fill you. Tasty and simple desserts will satisfy the sweet tooth, a welcome departure from the elaborate pâtisserie throughout the city. Alternatively, try Le Colimaçon – another restaurant offering classic French staples but modernized with a flavourful European twist. Favourites here include Speculoos-coated foie-gras and burratina with summer truffles from Puglia, Italy. For dessert, try the pain perdu (French toast) with Camargue sea-salt caramel ice cream. Because why have any old salted caramel ice cream when you can have one with sea-salt from Southern France?
For a more specialized and limited menu, try Les Pinces or L’Aller Retour – two delicious restaurants that focus on a specific item. Les Pinces is a lobster restaurant with a very limited menu so don’t bother if you’re not a fan of this shelled-fish. But if you enjoy lobster, whether a whole one, a lobster roll, or a classic Surf n’ Turf – this is the place for you. Especially because it’s rather affordable. The lobster dishes, which come with fries, are all €26, with the Surf-and-turf (lobster and steak) meal priced at €36. You can also find great cocktails here, all €10 and all named and inspired by seafood and aquatic. Try the ‘Red Tail’ or ‘Lobster Bib’ for a fun night. If you’re more of a steak person, then go to L’Aller Retour. Though it’s not a steakhouse, they do specialize in a few delicious steaks and read meat dishes, like the Bavarian fillet or Irish Angus rump steak. You’ll also enjoy the house burger and the Béarnaise black pudding. They also have a sister restaurant called L’ilot with a similar vibe, but instead of red meat it focuses on seafood.
If you’re looking for a more nouveau-French and trendy dining experience, consider Carbón – a popular restaurant in the Marais the preaches the philosophy of using wood-fire cooking for all of their dishes. The vision behind the menu focuses on using this old and traditional technique to cook food from the land and the sea, creating a truly “authentic” experience where the food embraces “nudity”. While it may seem pretentious, the menu is actually wonderful for share plates, an opportunity to sample a little bit of everything, with plenty to whet your appetite. Especially if you like a “smoked” element to your dishes. The food is flavourful with artful presentation, so it’s definitely worth the hype. You can also enjoy the speakeasy style bar beneath the restaurant, called LA MINA.
Benedict is a local hotspot, trendy yet very low-key. Here you’ll find a fun French-American dinner menu, and an even better brunch menu if you’re a fan of Eggs Benedict – the namesake dish of the restaurant. Caesar salads come in a wooden bowl the size of your head, while the burgers, steaks, sandwiches and fries are all worth digging into if you’re not a fan of the signature dish. And of course save room for dessert, especially the pain perdu (French toast), the tiramisu granola, and/or the crunchy profiterole with hazelnut ice cream. Portions are generous here too, so you’ll never have to worry about being hungry afterwards.
For those who find fine dining more their speed, you can go moderately fancier with Bofinger, which borders the Bastille, and specializes in Alsatian cuisine at its finest. For simple and traditional, start with the Flammekeuche Alsacienne as a starter, followed by the Strasbourg Choucroute – a classic dish of sausage and sauerkraut. You can also get fancier versions with seafood, if you’re looking to splurge. You can also find delectable seafood and meat dishes here, with cocktails to wash it down with. Personally, I’d suggested trying the Kir Lorrain – it’s like a bellini but so much better, with Crémant sparkling from the region, mixed with a Mirabelle plum liqueur (also regional). Even the desserts here are slightly different than the normal offerings, again sticking with the specialities and flavours.
If you happen to be well connected, either to someone famous or to a small selection of Frenchmen who are considered “regulars” (there is no rhyme or reason to how one becomes a regular), play your cards right and try and score a table at L’Ami Louis. This restaurant is notorious for being impossible to get a reservation at, odd seeing as you don’t come here for the quality service nor to be pampered, so if you want to dine at one of the world’s most famous French bistros, trying securing a spot a month in advance. It’s got an old boys club feel, you’re either in or you’re not, and you may be treated a bit rudely, especially if you are absolutely incapable of uttering a single word in French (better practice saying “merci” and “sil vous plait”). While ridiculously overpriced, it’s definitely an experience to be able dine here.
And for a really special night out, L’Ambroisie is the restaurant for you. It’s the perfect choice for an indulgent meal that focuses on mastering French cuisine, earning it the rare three Michelin stars. Dining here will undoubtedly run up your credit card bill and may require months of saving, but you will forever remember your meal – the perfect foray into French gastronomy. Further, the ambiance and décor of the restaurant will never left you forget that you’re indulging, making it an ideal choice when you want the whole package. Be sure to make a reservation in advance though, and that means more than a week or two. If you’re at all interested in dining here, try booking a reservation shortly after you’ve booked your flights.
If looking to abandon French cuisine all together, consider OBAO. Marketed as Asian street food, it’s a great option to take with you for a picnic in a square or park. Choose your noodle base, your toppings and sauce, and be on your way with delicious and affordable street food. Or go fancier with trendy and absolutely delicious new Izakaya restaurant ONII-SAN. Alternatively, opt for some trendy and delicious Italian food at BigLove, part of the Big Mamma Group which owns multiple restaurants in Paris, a couple in London, and now with restaurants and bars in Lyon, Lille and Madrid.
As for breakfast and brunch, you’ll find hearty breakfast a plenty, in addition to pastries to go, and Instagram-friendly fresh breakfasts, with avocado toast dominating menus. Try Breakfast in America if you want that hearty diner breakfast, while Café Charlot is a fresh alternative. Breakfast with a view can be found at Carette, where you can sit outside and look onto Place des Vosges while enjoying eggs and a coffee with a fresh squeezed juice. If you want a trendy brunch, BigLove Caffe has some great weekend staples, from pancakes with ricotta to scrambled eggs with truffle, avocado toast or indulgent French toast, yogurt and French fruit, and lots of coffee. Just outside of the Marais borders, right by Forum Les Halles, you can enjoy a great breakfast or brunch at Marcelle (also known as Marcel 3 on Google). Avocado toast with ricotta, eggs in a hole, granola bowls, brioche French toast are just some of the staples here, along with the delicious baked goods that will greet you when you walk in.